Willie’s Chocolate Revolution – an expert opinion

Award winning chocolatier, Paul A. Young, contemplates the challenges and conquests of Willie Harcourt-Cooze’s show, Willie’s Chocolate Revolution

I sat down to Willie and his chocolate revolution after a day of making more Easter eggs and bunnies that one could possibly imagine. This is, after all the week running up to Easter, the week when we eat more chocolate than any other time of the year.

And I get Willie. You see, I too am on a quest to change the way we eat chocolate. But Willie’s addictive confidence and relentless drive to reinvent the nation’s taste buds is inspiring. It’s a very tricky task, as Willie found out when his 10 guests were given his pure 100% cocoa mass, conched chocolate and the finished product to taste. “Too bitter,” they said, screwing up their faces at the lack of sugar and fat. His guests were then asked to bring out their favourite chocolate bars and, as you may guess, they were all milky confectionary bars and not (as Willie and I agree), real chocolate! I thought it was a great idea for Willie to give each guest a chocolate kit so when they feel the need for their usual sugary confectionary, they could break a piece of 70% dark chocolate instead to satisfy their craving. We all have to wait to see how they progressed and to find out if Willie has any born again chocoholics.

As a chocolatier I can relate to many of Willie comments in this first chapter of the new series. He says, “I am a victim of my own success.” I know only too well that long hours every day and little time off means exhaustion and trouble articulating at the end of the day. A familiar feeling, but still Willie ploughs on with all the vibrancy and enthusiasm each time he reaches another goal or step along his epic journey.

Personally, I have reservations about trying to directly link chocolate and health – until there’s been a lot of rigorous experimenting and longevity of positive results. The important point is that pure dark chocolate, is lower in calories and fat than milk chocolate or confectionary and it’s the sugar and fats that are bad for you. I also thought it was a shame for him to depart from talking about the great flavour of his chocolate to focus on health benefits.

I loved Willie’s recipes. They’re easy to prepare, cook and have a great homey, comforting vibe. The chocolate mousse cake would be a winner on any dinner table after the duck casserole. I would like to have seen Willie mention a variety/origin of cocoa to be used in his recipes and an alternative for viewers to use if they cannot buy his Venezuelan black chocolate blocks.

I really enjoy the nitty gritty of getting down to the business of harvesting the beans and working very hard to strike a deal for his top quality beans from Rio Caraibe. You could feel the tension and anxiety, not just from the treacherous 12 hour drive but the slicing of the cocoa beans and waiting to find out if they are of top quality. This must be an agonising time for Willie and I am glad we got to feel his lows and highs when the beans are of top quality. I feel like we see two different men. There’s Willie in the UK: an obviously over-worked and stressed man striving to be the best with all the modern obstacles restricting him doing this as fast as he would like to. Then we have Willie in Venezuela: a man still working hard but with a sense of it being a bit more orderly, relaxed and enjoyable.

I can really sympathise with this because I work at home in my production kitchen inventing new, challenging and exciting products and find the reality of running the business side stressful and less attractive.

My favourite part of this the first chapter? Willie at Rio Caraibe with the quality controller and farmer sat around the small square table slicing into the cocoa beans. For me reminiscent of a scene from a Hollywood blockbuster Goodfellas style movie! Will the deal be done or dusted? Luckily for our Willie, it was a winner.

We really are in for a roller coaster second chapter as Willie has his huge 25 tonnes of cocoa beans arrive – in good condition?

Catch up the rest of Willie’s Chocolate Revolution

Try Willie’s recipes

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