Steven Lamb, River Cottage host and resident smallholder, talks about River Cottage and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s policy on chicken welfare…
When you are involved with a project that has integrity as its underlying theme and the person that drives it just happens to be a passionate, campaigning advocate of all things good concerning animal welfare and food production (who also has a near pathological desire to champion best practice and not be afraid to challenge anything or anyone that falls short of his high ideals), then you know you are in for quite an experience. This, I’m sure you will agree is quite apparent in ‘Chicken, Hugh and Tesco Too’.
When Hugh originally highlighted the plight of British broiler chickens in the River Cottage Chicken Out series it was clear that there were serious questions left unanswered by the supermarkets. I remember the very real emotion of running our own River Cottage experiment which in effect meant we had to replicate the conditions of a standard broiler house and I can assure you that none of us here at River Cottage would want to repeat it.
As the resident smallholder and host at River Cottage I work with Hugh to ensure that our animals and in this particular case our chickens have the best quality of life and care. Unfortunately 95% of the meat birds sold in supermarkets are not so lucky and it is because the situation is so bad that we feel strongly about how we choose to raise our own chickens. It might sound daft but if you allow your chickens to behave like chickens then they will naturally be happier and produce far superior meat and eggs.
We keep two types of chickens here at River Cottage, layers and table birds. In fact we don’t actually call our layers chickens at all. We distinguish them from the table variety by referring to the layers as hens. We don’t run a cockerel with them so it seems a fitting description. However, recently one of the hens has taken on the characteristics of a cockerel and my good friend Pammy Riggs (aka The Chicken Whisperer) tells me that it is quite common and in her neck of the woods they are called a ‘hinny’. Whether or not it will go the full distance and complete its sex change I have no idea but it does give you an insight into the incredible complex natural behavior of this magnificent bird.
We get on average 300 eggs per bird over the course of the year and during the current cold spell and darker nights they have more or less slowed right down. We keep Cuckoo Marrans and Black Rocks in a paddock by the farmhouse and they are with us until their natural laying lives are over. Traditionally, in the past they would have ended up in the pot however that would probably not be the case today. Laying hens put so much energy into producing eggs that they have very little meat on them at all and would not be considered good to eat unless you were starving or a fox.
So we keep table birds for that reason and they are thus called because they are reared solely for the meat. The meat chickens are a totally different proposition and although we are still talking about the same genus in the poultry world, they are as alike (or different) as a dog and a frog. For one they are much bigger and have been bred to produce large, long legs and round pronounced crowns. They do not get to the point of lay as they are taken on to slaughter before this happens even though they are a slow growing variety called Hubbard. We adhere to the Soil Association standards for organic free range chickens which mean they are with us for over 90 days and then once slaughtered, we hang them in a chiller for a few days before eviscerating them. Treating them much like a game bird and extend their meaty offering across two or perhaps three dishes. On the occasions Gill or Hugh do serve chicken you can guarantee that a stock or perhaps a risotto will be made from the leftovers in the days to follow. This is one way that you can show respect for your animals by making sure that there is no waste if they are being bred for food.
Of course another way of showing respect is making sure that their welfare is uppermost. We are currently in the process of having four new houses built for both hens and chickens which will be delivered to us by our friends, Stephanie and Chris, who have developed some fantastic bespoke designs and understand that space, correct access, ventilation and comfort are the main criteria for the welfare of the birds. The new houses will be set in areas which will allow access to plenty of space and natural light with dappled shade from young trees.
When you create the correct environment for your chickens it really shows in their behaviour. They dig for grubs in the grass, chase each other around and have boisterous rough and tumble sessions just like they would in a wild habitat. Here at River Cottage it’s not uncommon to see toys for them to play with or shaded ramps and bridges for them to cross. It’s bit like Alton Towers for poultry. Truth of the matter is that they go mad for pecking at old DVDs which we hang on string – although we don’t tell Hugh that they are from his early episodes, we tell him they are from the F Word.
Catch up on what went down on Chickens, Hugh and Tesco Too.
Comments
I have not seen all the programme but will you being doing something on ALL the supermarkets or is it just Tesco that is going to take the WHOLE brunt of your anger. A response would be greatly welcomed.
Re : Intensive Standard Chickens
Complete corporate arrogance – well just watch Tescos…. people power will win the day and ultimately MAKE you take action because the only thing you understand is ££££££.
Im taking my £5000 p.a shopping business elsewhere and never stepping foot in a Tescos ever again…. even and when you eventually give in and actually bother to do something.
Bye Bye.
After watching your programme this evening regarding Tesco’s and Chickens I can’t believe how arrogant Tesco’s are. I will never shop there again.
i read this article and found it very interesting and its nice to see some people are breeding chickens they way they should be keep up the good work as a result of hughs programmes we only buy free range birds or eggs i know there a little more expensive but the taste is better and i think my conscience a little better and will keep on buying free range especially after seeing your programme this evening SHAME ON TESCO dont give up hugh!
Dear Hugh,
Thank you for taking on the big guns and Tesco in particular. We normally shop with Sainsbury’s but occassionally go to Tesco if one is nearby.
WE WILL BOYCOTT THEM FROM NOW ON WHATEVER THE DIFFICUKLTY FOR US.
I hardly eat Chicken now anyway. May god bless you for fighting for the welfare of poor defenceless animals.
Please make sure that we are informed of future similar campaigns. We are not rich. But your fight is ethical, moral and right. We will buy shares of any organisation if that will help you to fight them.
Best Wishes,
Nalin Uduwawala and Family.
Cheers for all the hard work, doing your best to educate the British public about what really happens to provide people with chicken. The programme also gave me more reasons to hate Tesco, especially that hateful woman who argued they do enough to show where their chicken comes from and the quality of life the chicken has. Made me want to yell at the TV!
Really enjoyed the show this evening and it’s great to be able to read more about what is going on at River Cottage. It sounds like Tesco could learn a thing or two about happy chooks from Steven!
Well done huge, I’m a small farmer in northamptonshire that has been farming since 1997, when i was 12 years of ages. I do not come from a family farming back ground, so everything i have got has through pure hard work, grit and determination. I have never claimed a penny of subsidy.
What you are setting out to do against these supermarkets has been well due for many years . To think that last year my store lambs only sold for £20/a piece (a lose of £10/lamb) and that this year they are worth anythng from £45-50. My fat lambs and beef have also been a lot stronger this year, Its about time these supermarkets started paying what i deserve to be paid for them. One day i wil own that farm of my own, which has been my ambishion ever since i was a very small child. keep up the good work.
Hi hugh,
I 100% agree with you and well done on making the british public aware of what they are buying, the way TESCO’S treated you was disgusting and totally uncalled for, I along with other people I know intend on hitting tesco where it hurts in there pockets and NOT SHOPPING THERE AT ALL, If I cannot afford to spend £1-2 more on a better kept chicken then I won’t buy, the more people keep on buying these cheap birds from tesco the more they will stock in the future, so DO NOT BUY THEM, and spend a little bit more, its worth it….
its all goood and well spoting on about buying free range chinken when britian is in recession my family consitions of 2 children and 2 aldults i have to but i to feed and clothe
also put a roof over my familys head with this hundred pond a week and buying a free range chicken all on beenifit how i am i supoode to feed my family . Ur ideas are based on rich family i really think u should think of britsh people in trouble before u strat spotting off about a chicken !!!!
Good on yer Hugh ! We always watch your programms and support you 100%. Tesco dont give a dam about anything only making profit and beating other supermarkets targets. Keep up the fight, We the “public” care and support you.
congratulations Hugh-you are about to help price chicken out of the ordinary person’s reach(by ordinary I mean people who for whatever reason are not blessed with the money that comes with a tv career).By the way- I think you’ll find that supermarkets are not the route of evil,as you portray them-they are a neccesary response to the small marketeers incapability to meet the challenges of a rapidly expanding market
Hi Hugh what a great programme that was. I don`t shop in Tescos anyway but if I did, I wouldn`t now. It is true what another person commented, all Tesco are interested in is ££££££££`s. I support all animals as far as I can and I also have an adopted Tiger and my mum an Elephant. Tescos go on about how they care and they are the worst for selling Turtles (which are supposed to be protected) and frogs. Which they export in app[alling conditions. That is why I don`t shop there. Good luck with your fight as you are really going to need it.
well done Hugh. It is essential that the public are aware of where their food comes from and how it gets there. The sheer arrogance displayed by the “pr” woman was a disgrace. Thankfully her attitude has discouraged me from shopping there!.Over the last couple of years i have been using my local butcher, sourcing free range meat. I am not rich there are 5 of us but i make soups and curries from the leftover chicken so it can go quite far and the taste is much much better. keep up the good work!
We have 2 chickens in our garden and after getting them I’m so concious of where my meat comes from. Chickens are friendly, inquisitive, and so charming. our hens are now our pets that give something back to us. yummy eggs!
We should get chickens the proper welfare standards they should have!
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